More Outdoors

Stay in the Loop!

Get our newsletter, This Week in the NJ Skylands, with updates, special offers and good ideas!

Read current newsletter

Privacy Statement

Rail Trails

Walking the Line

By Mike Helbing

Since my grandfather first took me hiking on the old DL&W line through Warren County, I have had an affinity for exploring the paths left along these rights of way, always in absolute wonder of how such a bold piece of our area's history could fade into obscure memory. At one time, nearly every town in New Jersey was served by rail, despite the great effort they took to construct. Countless people's lives focused on the railroad, relying on it for industry, food, employment, and transportation. Early steam train lines like the Belvidere-Delaware (Bel-Del), Morris & Essex, Warren, Sussex & Warren gave way to larger companies like the Central Railroad of New Jersey (CNJ); Delaware, Lackawanna and Western (DL&W); Lehigh; New York, Susquehanna and Western (NYS&W); Lehigh and New England (L&NE); Pennsylvania (PRR); Lehigh and Hudson River (L&HR). Each had its own character and personality, and shared one thing in common--they regularly worked the hills and valleys of the Northwest New Jersey Skylands. Towns like Phillipsburg, Washington, Blairstown, Oxford, Sparta, Bound Brook, Netcong, Port Morris, and others, were all key locations for the railroads.

Nearly all the railroads have, of course, been abandoned; tracks removed, buildings demolished. The remaining "scars" in the earth are level paths of black cinder dirt or ballast stone connecting towns and villages, factories and mines. Walking along these paths I cannot help but imagine how it once looked, and the people whose lives depended on the railroad. Because the trains went just about everywhere, the scenery constantly changes along these paths through towns, woods and farmland, passing the occasional building foundation from atop high fills, to deep cuts through rock. Because railroad grades traverse such varied terrain, a walk along them can be just as rewarding as hiking on conventional trails.

You don't need a whole lot of hiking know-how or aerobic virility to enjoy rail trail. You can walk along a rail trail for miles without the struggle of an uphill climb or the danger of twisting an ankle on a protruding rock. The soft cinder dirt that makes up the surface of most rail trails is soft and eliminates the need for a sturdy hiking boot. The trails provide an excellent place for the observation of beaver, deer, mink, muskrat, otter, and other wildlife. And, because the railroad often acted as a super pollinator, spreading seed from unknown, far-away places, many unusual and non-native plant species are evident along the way. Most of the abandoned lines that have been reclaimed as state park trails also welcome bicycle and horseback riders.

The Sussex Branch Trail

One of the premier rail trails in the Skylands is the Sussex Branch Trail. Formerly the Sussex Branch of the Delaware, Lackawanna, and Western railroad, this line is steeped in history as well as remarkable scenery. With only a few short interruptions, it is possible to trace this abandonment over twenty miles between the towns of Netcong and Branchville.

The chronology of this railroad's lifespan is of particular interest. Its predecessor, the Sussex Mine Railroad, spanned only seven miles from Waterloo Village on the Morris Canal to Andover Iron Mine just northeast of the town of Andover. Completed in 1851, this line was narrow gauged, meaning the rails were only forty inches apart. The Mine Railroad relied on mules to pull the ore carts rather than steam engines. This line is referred to as a "predecessor" because the Sussex Railroad, built in 1854 and extended to Newton, utilized only about two miles of the "mine" railroad's right of way. Both lines were the brainchild of Abrahm S. Hewitt, a mining pioneer at Long Pond near Ringwood as well as co-founder of the Cooper-Hewitt furnaces in Phillipsburg. Most significantly, this was Sussex County's first railroad.


The Sussex Branch’s hard cinder path cuts through rock and woods on the southern end, skirts the shores of Cranbury Lake and widens into open fields north of Newton.

Walk from the trail's main southern access point on Waterloo Road in Byram Township, across from International Drive at the Trade Center through a beautiful wooded area, skirting Jefferson Lake to the east. Some deviations the mine railroad had from the newer line are now part of Allamuchy Mountain State Park and can make interesting return routes for out-and-back hikes. In fact the Highlands Trail, marked with teal diamonds and linking New York State southwest across Sussex and Morris Counties to the Delaware River in Warren and Hunterdon Counties utilizes both the mine railroad bed and the main line.

The trail continues to the beautiful former resort community, Cranberry Lake, as well as Kittatinny Valley State Park where a variety of circuit hikes are possible. It passes through the towns of Andover and Newton, traverses the swamps of the awe-inspiring Newton Meadows, meets the Paulinskill Valley Trail at Warbasse and heads for the quaint village of Lafayette. At its north end, the railbed traverses a great deal of farmland and offers beautiful scenery of the Paulinskill River and it's tributaries.

Later, in 1869 the Sussex Railroad was extended to Branchville, the trail's northern terminus where you'll find an antique store, a weekend flea market, as well as plenty of eateries. While plans were made to extend the railroad through Culver's Gap, they never came to fruition. But you don't have to stop here. It is less than two miles on the road from the Sussex Branch to Acropolis Trail, part of Stokes State Forest, and on to the Appalachian Trail.

Abandoned in 1969, the entire rail line was acquired by the state in 1982. Now, with only short sections in Cranberry Lake and Newton where road detours are necessary, foot, bicycle, and equestrian uses are all permitted. Few trails of this kind blend with their surroundings with such intimacy as the Sussex Branch. It is not overdone, no pavement, little or no effort has gone into re-grading the surface. What we have here is a simple path of dark cinder dirt, some ballast rock here and there, surrounded by nature reclaiming the land that was taken from it long ago.


Chester

For more interesting rail-trail jaunts, the town of Chester, in Morris County is a sure bet. The Patriot's Path, Morris County's continually growing series of trails, makes good use of rail mileage in and around the Chester area. The Delaware, Lackawanna, and Western's Chester Railroad opened in 1869 to access the Chester Furnace and growing mining industry. Now, the Chester Branch is a beautiful trail through Morris County's Black River Park and the state's Black River Wildlife Management area. The eastern end of this trail is in Ironia; however, more adequate parking for this part is on the eastern side of Hill Road in Chester Twp.

West of Hill Road, there are plans to eliminate a brief interruption in the trail to nearby Rt. 206. West of Rt. 206, however, the trail becomes narrower with blue blazes and is open to foot traffic only. Part of this section is co-aligned with Furnace Road because the railbed lies on private land. There is limited parking along Furnace Road where trails diverge near Tanners Brook Road. From here, the white blazed Patriot's Path leads to ruins of the Chester Furnace, as well as a scenic crossing over the Black River, and the Junctions with abandoned Central Railroad of New Jersey's Chester Hill Branch and Hacklebarney Mine Railroad.

The Chester Hill Branch, opened in 1873 (although extensions were made into town and to other mines later) offers another scenic walk through history. From Chubb Park, on Rt 24/513, the railbed makes a surprisingly steep descent (for a railroad, anyway) toward the Black River and Chester Furnace. A missing bridge over Furnace Road, of which one abutment remains, requires a brief detour. From Furnace Road, Patriot's Path makes use of much of this line to its temporary end at Tanner's Brook Road. As of now, the only other completed section of this trail is between Coleman Road and Bartley Road in Washington Township. This section, while very short, offers nice seasonal views over Long Valley.


An old CNJ railroad bridge crosses the Black River near Hacklebarney Mine in the Chester woods.

Finally, the Hacklebarney Mine Railroad, built in the 1870s to connect the mining area with nearby Chester Furnace, is one of the most unrecognizable yet beautiful sections of rail trail in the state. The best place to park is at Cooper Mill on Rt 24/513 just west of downtown Chester. While the sections of this line from here to its former CNJ junction lies on private property, the section from behind the Cooper Mill to Hacklebarney Mine is open to public. It is possible to continue to the CNJ Chester Hill Branch via the blue blazed Black River Trail.

Along the way, it is possible to see the abutments from where the tracks once crossed the Black River, a scenic dammed pond, the now fenced-in Hacklebarney Mine, as well as a varied collection of plant life. Just south of the mining site, the trail follows a former narrow gauge railroad known as the Langdon Mine Railraod which operated only two or three years in the 1880's. Again, the trail departs from the railbed where it once crossed the Black River on it's way to Langdon Mine, now private property.

Along this entire section, interpretive signs have been placed to help describe the history of the area.

Comments

don oriolo
01 Nov 2012, 03:32
It would be great to have a quiet monorail system connection Sussex county to....ANYWHERE! Does anyone know who owns the abandoned rail beds, and is there a listing of all of them that exist?\r\nThanks\r\nDon
Julie Gause
17 Aug 2012, 10:47
If you would like to hike in the Chester area, please check out www.ChesterTrails.org for trail maps, announcements of guided hikes, and ideas for exploring themes like the history and geology of the area. Join like-minded folks on monthly hikes along the Chester Trails!
gail hughes
27 Jun 2011, 12:50
i'm looking to join a group or others interested in biking the rail-trails morris county,nj
M'ke Helbing
11 Mar 2011, 18:29
Chuck,\r\nThere is only one former rail line I am aware of that went through Randolph Township...at least that I can think of off the top of my head, and it's one I described here.\r\nThe former Chester Branch of the Delaware, Lackawanna, and Western Railroad passed through. The northern portion of this is still used.\r\nFrom Lake Junction south, it is used to Kenvil where there is a switch to the former Central Railroad of NJ's High Bridge Branch. Both are now operated by Morristown and Erie. The CNJ north of here was obliterated due to quarrying so that line now routes onto the former DL&W. South of here, the line crosses over Rt 46 in Kenvil/Mine Hill area, then continues to cross Rt 10 near Horseshoe Lake Park. Some of this piece is being refurbished.\r\nBeyond Horseshoe Lake, it is abandoned. The rails just stop and then it soon enters water authority land.\r\nThis WILL be open to public soon. Beyond here, in the Ironia area, it becomes a side route of the main Patriot's Path. Following it beyond, the main white blazed Patriot's Path route joins it through Black River Wildlife Management Area. The rest of the line can be followed all the way to the Chester Furnace area with only slight detours. Morris County Park Commission has a deal to develop the section through the water authority property (the section from Pleasant Hill Road to Righter Road) as a through route, part of their new North County Greenway. This will be an impressive trail route that will encompass rustic foot paths as well as rail lines including this, the Mt. Hope Mineral Railroad, and the Wharton and Northern.\r\nRuss Felter, a planner for Morris County Park Commission cited that the entire trail is still a long way till completion, but said a long section in the south would soon be open. Morris continues to be best county park department in the state, consistently developing new low maintenance public facilities like trails despite widespread government cut backs. They deserve a great deal of credit.
Chuck
11 Mar 2011, 16:42
Hello, i recently found rail tracks in randolph nj, near den brook near Shongum lake and after research I still cannot find the name of the rail line. I discovered that there was a saw mill there if that helps. Thanks
M'ke Helbing
24 Nov 2010, 17:12
That's great!\r\nI go to the maptech website which has a free historic map server. It's great!
Pablo E Martin
24 Nov 2010, 10:27
Hey i just wanted to let you know that I like yourself love walking and rediscovery the old RR trails in sussex county and warren county. If you can help me find some old maps or where to go get them, or any info that you know just let me know, i love the web and info that you have here very interesting, once again thank you\r\n\r\nyour friend from RR Pablo\r\nPS:I will be taking a walk through the Hacklebarney Mine Railroad trails, sounds neet
M'ke Helbing
26 Oct 2009, 08:35
Thank you everyone for all of the wonderful compliments, and for your shared interest in rail trails...I'll try to answer all of your questions:\r\nJulie: Points of entry for the Chester area are on Furnace Road with pull off parking near the Patriot's Path sign, at Cooper Mill on 513, and at Kay Environmental Education Center where the rail rights of way can be accessed via other trails. The Chester vicinity here may not be as suitable for cycling, but the section from Hillside Road in Chester Township out to Ironia is perfect for that!\r\nThe Sussex Branch is great for biking almost all the way through, however there is a washout area in the Whitehall section of Byram Township, and just north of Newton, the trail has been routed around the Newton Meadows because of washouts and the fact that a ride through a stream is necessary. Still, it's worht the trip. There are also a few ballast and washout spots between Augusta and Branchville on the Sussex Branch.\r\nParking for the Sussex Branch is best done on Waterloo Road to the south, at Cranberry Lake, on Rt 206 in Andover, on street in Newton, at Warbasse Junction, or in Lafayette.\r\nKathleen, I believe the closest access to Hamburg would probably be Lafayette where the trail makes a turn to the northwest. Parking is available in the village next to the trail as well as on municipal park land nearby.\r\nJohn: There is usually not much blocking the way on the Sussex Branch to get through, but I would recommend not bringing anything wide on certain sections. The section from Cranberry Lake to Andover is VERY narrow at times. To the north of there you should'nt have a problem. It gets narrow again north of Augusta toward Branchville. For the Chester area trails, the only one that would be suitable for wide bikes would be the one from Hillside Road to Ironia.\r\nSteve: In the Pinelands you can walk the former Central Railroad of NJ through Wharton State Forest, but tracks are still in and it can be tough. Mostly shorter rail trails exist in south NJ, like the one in Tuckerton. There is a nice section you can take of the former Freehold and Jamesburg Railroad, which now makes up two connected rail trails from Allaire State Park to the shore, this is probably the most mileage you can get in the south.\r\nIn addition, the Henry Hudson Trail offers almost a complete paved rail trail from Atlantic Highlands to Freehold with only a few interruptions. That one is a Monmouth County Park.\r\nAnd thanks for the correction on the location of Cooper Mill!
Deb Rosenblatt
25 Oct 2009, 08:22
hi Mike,\r\n\r\nI'm so impressed with your extensive knowledge of hiking trails in the area and you write beautifully. Thanks for the information posted. Quick question, you stated that the Cooper Mill was east of downtown Chester. I believe it is just west...\r\n\r\nThanks again.\r\n\r\nDeb Rosenblatt\r\n(Amanda's mom)
Steve
04 Jun 2009, 13:19
I've been searching everywhere possible for any info I can get to polish my novel involving in large part New Jersey trains; both freight and passenger. My story, however, takes place mostly in the Great Pinelands Forest in middle and southern NJ. Have you enjoyed any rail trails there? Steve
John
14 May 2009, 13:56
Mike,\r\nGreat stuff. I was thinking about purchasing one of those Surrey 4 wheel bikes for 2 people--my 2 small dogs insist on spending quality time with us.\r\nI know it sounds kinda stupid, but would be fun if at all possable. My question is; are the trail entrances wide enough to get through (approx 42")or is there a way I can find the longest stretches and than just make a return trip?\r\nThanks
kathleen
05 May 2009, 16:35
What is the closest point of entry to the Sussex Branch trail from Hamburg?\r\n\r\nthanks
Julie
10 Jan 2009, 08:39
Do you have a list of the points of entry for the rail to trail? Also, what are the best places to bike ride on the trail?
Larry Ashley
16 Jun 2008, 05:38
Mike, very instersting info! I have been hiking these trails around the Chester area for the last several weeks with my dog Max, and it's been great. Ever since I was young, I have been fascinated with the railroads. Now our next adventure is to check out the trail from the Cooper mill.\r\n Thanks!
*Name:
Email:
Notify me about new comments on this page
Hide my email
*Text:
 
 
Powered by Scriptsmill Comments Script